Load extension behavior of spun sewing threads on seam slippage

Abstract

The present research is focused to develop the relationship between the seam slippage and mechanical properties of sewn fabric by considering the spun thread and fabric configuration in the stitched assembly. Plain and twill weave fabric was used for the sample development stitch with the spun thread while the sewing machine setting was kept constant to produce a balanced seam. Different stitched samples are prepared in warp and weft direction for investigation by considering superimposed, flat, and bound seam classes with multi-thread chain, lock, and cover stitches. Experiment findings highlight the optimum load of seam slippage in N at 6 mm seam opening at stitched assembly by employing mentioned seam classes and stitch types. The results showed that 189.97 N maximum load was found at 6 mm seam opening for plain weave fabric in warp direction at flat seam sample with a lock stitched while in weft direction 80.65 N minimum load at the bound seam with multi-thread chain stitch. For twill weave fabric 94.72 N minimum slippage load at a 6 mm seam opening was observed in the weft direction at the bound seam with multi-thread chain stitch while in the warp direction maximum slippage load of 200 N was reported at the superimposed, flat and bound seam with multi-thread chain, lock and cover stitches. Established findings have a significant coefficient of determination (R2 > 0.90) between sewing thread extension and seam slippage load at 6 mm seam opening in both directions. The present research provides the guidelines to select the spun sewing thread which was possessed the minimum extension (%) against the respective load (N) to overcome the seam slippage in the stitched garment.